Tools: jack, jack stands, 6mm hex, 7 or 8 mm hex, rachet, hammer
1. Jack the car up
2. Get one wheel off
2.5 With 6mm hex on a rachet or something get the rotor retaining bolt off or loose before you proceed.
3. Next take your 7 or 8mm hex and remove the caliper guide bolts, they are covered with black plastic caps on my E36, this will release pressure from the pistons.
--NOTE-- There are pad-wear sensors on the front left and right rear calipers, so be sure to hang ALL calipers from your springs with a coat hanger (I used a 3ft length of Cat5e, but i'm a nerd)
4. Next wrench off the two caliper bracket bolts behind the rotor, i can't remember what size you need, but i think it is a standard size.
5. Get your retaining bolt off, and then you can either pry the rotor off, or a couple of good wacks with a hammer (rubber mallet perhaps) will do the trick.
--NOTE-- when replacing just the rotors it is wise to replace the pads as well, for if you are replacing warped rotors, the pads that were used with those rotors will not be perfect and will warp your new rotors.
use anti-seize on the retaining bolts when you put them back in, and be sure to slowing pump the brakes with the car on before hitting the road to regain pressure in the pistons.
--NOTE-- i could not get my retaining bolts off, so i had to use an impact driver which did the trick. penetrating oil and heat will only get you so far. but anything is worth a shot, just remember when using heat there is a wheel bearing in the hub, and if you break down the oil in the bearing you are f-ed.
--FINAL NOTE-- there are some great DIY sites out there, and disc brakes are disc brakes, even your chevy driving motorhead-neighbor can be of some assistance.
1. Jack the car up
2. Get one wheel off
2.5 With 6mm hex on a rachet or something get the rotor retaining bolt off or loose before you proceed.
3. Next take your 7 or 8mm hex and remove the caliper guide bolts, they are covered with black plastic caps on my E36, this will release pressure from the pistons.
--NOTE-- There are pad-wear sensors on the front left and right rear calipers, so be sure to hang ALL calipers from your springs with a coat hanger (I used a 3ft length of Cat5e, but i'm a nerd)
4. Next wrench off the two caliper bracket bolts behind the rotor, i can't remember what size you need, but i think it is a standard size.
5. Get your retaining bolt off, and then you can either pry the rotor off, or a couple of good wacks with a hammer (rubber mallet perhaps) will do the trick.
--NOTE-- when replacing just the rotors it is wise to replace the pads as well, for if you are replacing warped rotors, the pads that were used with those rotors will not be perfect and will warp your new rotors.
use anti-seize on the retaining bolts when you put them back in, and be sure to slowing pump the brakes with the car on before hitting the road to regain pressure in the pistons.
--NOTE-- i could not get my retaining bolts off, so i had to use an impact driver which did the trick. penetrating oil and heat will only get you so far. but anything is worth a shot, just remember when using heat there is a wheel bearing in the hub, and if you break down the oil in the bearing you are f-ed.
--FINAL NOTE-- there are some great DIY sites out there, and disc brakes are disc brakes, even your chevy driving motorhead-neighbor can be of some assistance.